WakeMakers works closely with Fly High to build custom fitted ballast bags ensuring 100% of the free space you have is filled to capacity. Optimize your boat’s storage compartments to obtain the most water ballast.
Every wakeboard boat manufacturer has a unique shaped compartment that can’t be fully utilized with the standard off the shelf bag from Fly High, Straight Line, or Eight.3. If this situation occurs you might consider a custom sac.
(Please fill out one of our Custom Ballast Bag Design Forms and feel free to give us a call at 888.338.6085)
Not only does the bag material perfectly form to your desired area but the number and placement of fittings can also be selected. If one of our customers wants to use two or three pumps at the same time to fill or drain a bag it is possible. We can place a couple extra ports where ever they are needed to get the job done.
Fly High manufacturers and produces all of the custom ballast sacks we order using the same process they do to build their very popular line of Fat Sacs. Fly High’s advanced cutting techniques and state of the art welding systems make the Valmex material custom sacs extremely durable.
Measuring Your Boat: (By Spencer) There are a couple things you will need. I like to use a standard tape measure and a smart phone. This way I can take notes and pictures while I am trying to get the best numbers.
Step 1 – Looks around the compartment for any wiring, strainers, gas filler lines or anything else that may need to be re-routed or compensated for when obtaining your final measurements. Take notes and pictures so you can remember when sketching out your bag.
Step 2 – Measure the largest parts of your compartment starting with length. Wakeboard boat compartments are not perfect squares or rectangles. I like to measure the length at the bottom of the compartment and the length at the top to compare. I will usually go with the larger number unless I have made a note about something that might be in the way.
Step 3 – Measure the width of the compartment. The bottom of the compartment is usually the narrowest portion which is why I also measure the top portion as well. Once I have my two measurements I usually look to see if my top measurement as a width would push on the engine divider wall panel. I find that taking a couple inches off of the top width seems to give me a great average between the two. Remember the sacs will expand out about an 1″.
Step 4 – Measure the height of where you would like the sac to be. Remember if you are integrating you could have a vent and multiple fills coming off of the bag. When the door closes or the seat is placed back in it’s position you will want to sit back in place without a bulge. For rear compartments I usually go up to where the deck lid bezel starts which gives me a couple inches for fittings. Make sure if you are going under seat cushions that you measure to the fiberglass ceiling and then subtract 1 to 2 inches depending on fitting placement. When the under seat sacs fill to capacity they tend to bubble up moving the seats out of place. This can be annoying for passengers and also hard on the seat base structure.
Step 5 – Determine the best fitting locations. We usually like to see at least three to four fittings per bag to accommodate a fill, drain, vent, and auxiliary port. You may not use all of the ports, but it is easier to plug them for future use than it is to design a new custom bag to add one. Extra ports can be used for many things. Some of our customers will use a single pump to fill and two pumps to drain. Others may add one to the top obtaining the flexibility to manually fill and drain the bag more quickly with an Elevate Turbo pump. We always add an extra drain port to use a ballast transfer system like the WakeMakers X-Link.
Determining Your Weight
Use the form below to quickly calculate the capacity of the bag you design. If needed, you can split complex bags into multiple simple rectangles and add the capacities that are calculated together to achieve the total capacity.